The room was dimly lit, illuminated solely by a weak yellow gentle bulb and the flames from the hearth. A small group of women and men, clutching the holy icons of Greek Orthodox saints, was dancing and twirling across the flooring underneath the sound of the devices: a Thracian lyra, a gaida, a tambourine. The dancers, surrendering to the music, had their eyes closed.
Everybody sang collectively:
Constantine the toddler, little Constantine,
His mom had him, she took care of him whereas he was very younger,
A message got here for him to go to conflict,
He saddles and horseshoes his horse within the night time,
He places silver petals, golden nails and a pearl on the saddle.
Their voices carried outdoors into the wet streets. Some time later, in a sort of an ecstasy, they started strolling barefoot on burning coals.
Annually on Could 21, the Greek Orthodox Church celebrates Saint Constantine and Saint Helen. Within the small village of Lagadas, about half an hour outdoors Thessaloniki in northern Greece, the celebrations final for 3 days and embody a spectacular fire-walking ritual referred to as Anastenaria, the phrase for which derives from the Greek “anastasi,” that means resurrection.
In 2016 I traveled to northern Greece to fulfill among the individuals who preserve these traditions.
The household and shut mates of Anastasios Gaintatzis are among the final remaining members. Mr. Gaintatzis, who’s 85, is likely one of the oldest hearth walkers within the nation. His household, who as soon as lived in what’s at the moment the Bulgarian city of Kosti, in jap Thrace, arrived in Lagadas in 1923, after the obligatory inhabitants change between Greece and Turkey.
The folks gathered right here had been members of a membership fashioned by the Gaintatzis household in 1994 to assist perpetuate the native fire-walking traditions.
Ethnographers imagine that the ritual has its roots within the historic Greek celebrations of Dionysus — and that, by way of the years, the pagan traditions have melded with Orthodox rites.
Others imagine in a neighborhood legend that attributes the origins of the ceremony to when the church of Constantine and Helen caught hearth in Kosti, many a whole bunch of years in the past. In line with lore, the voices of the saints had been heard pleading for assist contained in the church. Villagers entered the flaming constructing to rescue the saints’ icons, and, once they got here out, neither the rescuers nor the icons had been harmed. They’d been protected against the fireplace by the saints.
The Anastenaria ritual begins on the konaki, a particular shrine devoted to the saints, the place the icons are positioned among the many amanetia (crimson handkerchiefs which can be thought of sacred by the fireplace walkers) and different tributes.
Then the musicians arrive and the celebration begins.
The fireplace-walking ceremony is normally carried out outdoors, however in 2016 a heavy rainfall pressured the occasion indoors.
One of many group members positioned giant items of wooden on the hearth and, by the point scorching coals had fashioned, all people was prepared to start. The celebrants eliminated the carpet, scattered the burning coal on the bottom and, one after the other, began strolling on it, barefoot, with closed eyes, virtually drunk with the feelings of the second.
Some members walked slowly, others extra shortly. They adopted the rhythm of the music. I attempted to pay shut consideration to their faces. They confirmed no indicators of ache or inconvenience. In truth they appeared slightly calm and peaceable.
When the primary batch of coal had cooled, a second batch was introduced out from the hearth, and the ceremony continued unabated.
At the same time as a spectator, I felt a swell of emotion whereas watching the fireplace walkers — and even perhaps the deep thriller and divinity of the second.
The Anastenaria rituals in Lagadas normally appeal to dozens of individuals from the encircling space, however on the primary day the poor climate saved most guests away. The next two days, nevertheless, after the rain stopped, many individuals got here to look at — and this time the fire-walking pit was arrange in an out of doors space close to the konaki, offered to the celebrants by the municipality.
Metallic obstacles had been organized in a big circle to maintain the viewers protected, and within the middle members of the group lit an enormous hearth on a pile of wooden. As night time fell, folks gathered round to look at. When the fireplace walkers and the musicians left the konaki, it was already pitch black outdoors. All of the lights within the space went off, and the one factor you possibly can see was the burning coal. The gang stared in silence as the fireplace walkers rushed onto the embers.
After the celebration, the members of the group gathered again on the konaki and ate scorching bowls of soup to assist chase away the chilly climate. They supplied a bowl to me, too. Quickly everybody had departed apart from Anastasios Gaintatzis.
Mr. Gaintatzis has lengthy tried to maintain the customized alive by bringing new members of the family and shut mates into the fold every time potential. However it’s not a straightforward activity, he stated.
“It’s one thing that may’t be taught,” he informed me. “It’s the saints who name you.”